Jacobi Press, a Latvian immigrant who'd skipped out on rabbinical training, opened a haberdashery on Yale's campus in 1902, going door to door in student dorms to sell custom-made clothing with unpadded shoulders, a break from the stiffer tailoring of the era. The shop became known for the natural-shoulder suit and a run of items that turned into Ivy League staples: Shaggy Dog Shetland sweaters, undarted Harris Tweed jackets, flap-pocket oxford shirts and reversible balmacaan coats. Japanese licensee Onward Kashiyama bought the company outright in 1986, keeping Jacobi's grandson Richard Press on as vice president until he left the business in 1991.